Yamanote Line

To find an uncrowded train on the Yamanote line is about as likely as finding a replacement mobile phone recharger in Tokyo for a non-Japanese mobile phone.

According to Wikipedia, there are 3.5 million passengers per day on the Yamanote Line riding between its 29 stations. In comparison, the entire New York Subway system carries just over five million passengers per day over a network of 26 lines and 468 stations.

Even on a quiet Sunday night, I found, a Yamanote Line train out of Shibuya made the "crowded" peak-hour trains people are wont to complain about back home in Brisbane appear to be utterly deserted.

And it was on such a crowded and cramped carriage that I saw what must have been the world's least convincing anime cosplayer.

We'll start from the ground and go up.

High-heel shoes.

Fishnet stockings.

Very, very, very short mini skirt.

Camisole top that was rather revealing.

Handbag.

Hairband with "Bugs Bunny"-type ears attached.

And, on his chin, a five-day growth of beard.

Oh, and he had the build of a front-row-forward.

But the really funny thing was everyone's reaction to discovering this extremely bizarre cross-dresser in their midst.

In short, there was no reaction.

None at all.

It was as if it was expected that every Yamanote Line train leaving Shibuya on a Sunday night must carry at least one burly, bearded, bunny-eared, hairy-chested cross-dresser.